Exploring Kalbarri in Western Australia

There’s something about the coastal town of Kalbarri in Western Australia that draws you back. It’s notoriously blustery there, but it’s more than just the wind.

Located about 570km north of Perth, Kalbarri is uniquely placed between two distinctly different landscapes. In April 2021 the coastal town was in the eye of Cyclone Seroja and was devastated as the storm tore through and left a trail of destruction in its path.

Fortunately, there were no fatalities, but more than 70 per cent of the buildings were damaged including many homes and properties, and infrastructure on the shoreline, the jetty and foreshore buildings. It battered the town and left its residents reeling. Yet, in true Aussie resilience, this small town is getting back on its feet.

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In its position on the coast, Kalbarri, while copping the brunt of the wind, is also filled with natural beauty. It’s a beguiling mix of ancient gorge wonder and coastal splendour, as a mesmerising vista greets you upon entering the town, an intense aqua blue of the Murchison River blending with the sea.

On one side, coastal cliffs jut out in to the Indian Ocean and spectacular gorges inland offer breathtaking walks, with rock formations as old as 400 million years.

Kalbarri boasts a variety of adventures in the best of both these worlds, yet it’s often overlooked by travellers doing the west coast. Many stop for a couple of nights, do a few walks and move on. That was us too, but sometimes life has a way of taking you back for a second look.

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Our first visit to Kalbarri, in September 2021, saw us staying two nights at Murchison House Station, on an unpowered site by the river. It was wildflower season, and the temperatures were ideal for walking.

During our two days, we explored the coastal cliffs, including walks to Island Rock, the Natural Bridge and the boardwalk to Eagle Gorge lookout. The following day we ventured inland and walked to the Z Bend, marvelled at the view through Natures Window and experienced the spectacular Skywalk, which opened to the public in June 2020.

Twists and turns

When we left Kalbarri, we thought we’d seen the best of the area. Our travels continued to Geraldton, with stops at the marshmallow-coloured Pink Lake at Port Gregory and the best fish and chips in Horrocks, before settling in to Geraldton for a couple of weeks, catching up on car repairs and all those things that need attention when you’ve been on the road for a while.

It was there I saw the online ad for some casual weekend work. It was at a caravan park back in Kalbarri. Within a few hours we were making arrangements to head back to the coastal hamlet to start work. Our initial two days in Kalbarri would become two months.

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Travelling and working is becoming more commonplace now and we’ve met loads of people on our travels with similar stories. We spoke to a man who’d set off around Australia, reached Kalbarri and went no farther. He’s a builder. Six months on he’s still there, rebuilding the buildings on the big station. His wife works at Red Bluff Bakery and they both love it.

At the Visitor Information Centre I met tourism advisor Nicky. She’d worked at the centre 20 years before, travelled the world and decided to come back to live. She says her heart is in the area. Another guy at the caravan park moved his young family there. Although still in temporary accommodation at the park while their house is being rebuilt, he’s also helping to rebuild and repair other homes in the area.

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There’s work all around Australia. With fewer backpackers coming in to the country due to COVID and a shortage of labour, employers are desperate for workers, whether it’s to pick fruit, work behind a bar, drive a truck or clean at a caravan park. Now is a great time to not only travel Australia but to experience all these different sides of it.

Staying long-term in one place changes the feel of a journey. It becomes less of a holiday and more about integrating in to a community. Still, at the end of the day, unless we make that huge leap to have a sea or tree change, we eventually move on. In our last few weeks at Kalbarri, we once again became tourists.

Lobsters and brews

The pub in town offers great meals and a relaxed atmosphere, while the Red Bluff Bakery is our pick for lunch. However, our favourite eatery was Finlay’s in the back blocks of Kalbarri. Renowned for its fresh seafood, rustic alfresco ambience and regular live music, Finlay’s is a favourite with locals and visitors.

This quirky place with dirt floors and craft beers on tap is surrounded by museum-type relics. It’s a beer garden, sheltered eating place, microbrewery and seafood restaurant all rolled in to one, and we loved it.

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One of the highlights of our stay was a rock lobster charter on-board Nebraska II. Leaving early in the morning, it was a thrilling couple of hours with third-generation commercial lobster fishermen Vaughan and Mark keen to show us the traps. Both guys were a wealth of knowledge, entertaining and informative.

It’s an interactive time on the boat and you’ll get to see the guys pulling pots, you’ll be treated to lobster cooked three ways by their on-board chef, and you’ll get to share in the catch and take some home. This charter is great value and great fun. They also run sunset cruises and fishing charters.

On the first weekend in June, Kalbarri hosts the annual Rock Lobster Fest, featuring crays and canoes and Adventurethon Enduro Races. It was cancelled in 2021 due to the cyclone, but keep an eye out for it again in 2022.

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Kalbarri has undeniably experienced its own endurance in recovering from Cyclone Seroja. Travellers are once again being welcomed with open arms and encouraged to stay a while, with a variety of ways to enjoy the area.

You can take a scenic flight, hit the sand dunes on a quad bike at nearby Wagoe Beach, or hire a boat to cruise down the Murchison River. The fishing is incredible, with huge fish caught each day. However you experience Kalbarri, you’ll come to understand their slogan, “simply remarkable”. Our stay here was certainly that.

5 things to see and do

01: KALBARRI SKYWALK

The Skywalk is top of the list. Beat the crowds and the heat and go early. Or do as we did and head out at dusk with drinks at sunset. You’ll feel like you’re floating on air as you take a thrilling walk out along two cantilevered viewing platforms that hang in mid-air 100m above the gorge.

02: NATURE’S WINDOW

Nature’s Window is one of the most photographed parts of the Coral Coast and, when you see it, you’ll understand why. It’s a picturesque but easy walk that leads to this iconic natural attraction. For keen walkers who want to continue, the 9km return Loop Hike begins at Nature’s Window.

This is an impressive but challenging hike and it’s important to be prepared if you plan to walk it. Temperatures in the gorge are often 10°C higher and heat stress has resulted in fatalities on this trail, so hiking isn't recommended from November to March. However, there are plenty of other shorter trails.

03: THE BEACHES

Down by the coast are plenty of beaches to cool off in. At Chinaman’s Beach the river meets the sea, and it’s a calm, sheltered spot ideal for swimming. Siphon Beach is an ideal shoreline to take an early morning stroll.

It’s a quiet spot with a beautiful reef break. At Jakes Beach you’ll find one of WA’s most famous remote surfing breaks. The elevation creates a natural grandstand for spectators to watch surfers and dolphins riding this world-class wave. At Wittecarra Beach south to Red Bluff is great beach fishing, with 4WD access only.

04: OFF-ROADING

For those looking for off-road adventure there are myriad tracks that lead out from River Road. Most are easy to medium grade, but if it’s been raining the tracks could get more challenging. Pick up a mud map from the Visitor Centre in town and follow the tracks towards Castle Rock and Goat Island.

Head out to Murchison Station where (for a price) there’s a heap of tracks to lose yourself in. Nearby at Lucky Bay are some of the highest and most exciting dunes to drive on in WA.

05: COASTAL LOOKOUTS

For sweeping views of the Kalbarri area, drive to Meanarra lookout or head to one of the many coastal lookouts to enjoy an Indian Ocean sunset. At Pot Alley, the view south from the clifftop truly captures the rugged beauty of this coastline, while Blue Holes Beach offers one of the best snorkelling spots.